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H1xx Dock Construction

From iriver Wiki, your source for everything iriver - a part of MisticRiver.

Contents

Required parts

  1. Suitable sized project box LH20W
  2. Usb 2 cable and optional Usb mini b plug L53AZ if the cable doesn't have one
  3. Power plug FK05F
  4. 2 switches, one for usb and one for charging FH97F
  5. PCB strips or something else to mount the connectors on inside the project box

Image:H1xxbat_part1.jpg Image:H1xxbat_part2.jpg

Required tools

  1. Soldering iron and solder
  2. Wire stripper (scissors, knife etc.)
  3. Electrical tape or heatshrink
  4. Multimeter, not required if you are using an existing cable with mini b plug
  5. File
  6. Dremel or junior hacksaw blade and drill

Cut hole in box

Mark out where you are going to cut. I prefer to apply some masking tape to the box as it provides a little protection and a good surface for drawing on.

Image:H1xxbat_htape.jpg

There are a few ways to cut the hole. I used a drill to make a couple of holes so I could use a junior hacksaw blade to do the cutting. You could also use a dremmel type tool. Be sure to cut the hole side of the lines then file the hole to the correct size occasionally testing for fit with the player. Optionally you could use some rubber or split heatshrink to line the hole to prevent damage to the player. Personally I don't think it is required with a plastic box and doesn't look as nice.

Image:H1xxbat_bhole.jpg

The wiring loom

Image:H1xxbat_loom.png

It is easier to wire everything together first then fit it into the box after everything is tested. Just make sure the wires are long enough that the plugs and switches to be correctly positioned in the box.

First solder wires to the switches.

Image:H1xxbat_sw.jpg

Then connect one switch to the centre pin (+ve) of the power plug and connect the other switch to the +ve pin of the usb plug. Usb mini b pinout. If you are using a cable with an existing mini b plug the +ve wire is typically red so strip the cable to the wires and cut the red wire and connect to the switch.

Image:H1xxbat_pin.jpg

Now solder the free ends of both switches together. Don't solder them to the +ve wire of the usb lead yet as it will be easier to work without the weight of the usb cable pulling on everything.

Image:H1xxbat_consw.jpg

Solder a wire to the -ve pin of the power plug and another wire to the -ve pin of the usb plug and connect the two wires together as with the +ve. If you are using a cable with an existing mini b plug the -ve wire is typically black. Solder wires to the two remaining pins of the usb plug.

Image:H1xxbat_allw.jpg

Now connect everything to the usb cable. This is easy if you are using an existing cable, just match the colours. It's also fairly easy if you are using a separate connector using a pinout and a multi meter or the risky way, just guessing and testing if it works. If you are using a separate usb connecter solder a lead onto the usb connector body and solder the other end to the usb cable shield. Plug the usb cable into your computer and the plugs into your H140 and test everything. Since the ends of the wires are still exposed make sure there are not shorts.

Image:H1xxbat_find.jpg Image:H1xxbat_testw.jpg

Now that everything is tested cover any exposed wires with electrical tape.

Image:H1xxbat_wtape.jpg

Mount connectors to box

This is probably the most difficult part. The connectors need to be positioned correctly to ensure the player sits straight in the dock and can smoothly slide into place. The connectors will be glued to strips of PCB (printed circuit board) that will then be glued onto the box in the correct position. First 3 strips of metal will be glued across the box to hold the player straight, they also help prevent the player being pushed too far into the box breaking off the connectors. The strips of metal are just cut from bicycle spokes but pretty much any material will do. To ensure the strips are level I use spacers to keep the ends the required distance from the top of the box. For this box a good length is 12mm. The two strips at the sides of the box are bent so they do not obstruct the sockets on the bottom of the player.

Image:H1xxbat_metal.jpg

Since the metal strips will keep the player straight in the box mounting the connectors is easy. The connectors will be glued to a strip of PCB running across the box. Position the player in the box and insert the connectors. Now glue the connectors to the strip and they should be perfectly lined up. Since the power connector is fatter than the usb connector I needed used a small bit of PCB to fill the gap between the PCB and the usb plug.

Image:H1xxbat_congl.jpg

Glue another strip of PCB on the opposite side of the connectors so the connectors are supported from both sides.

Image:H1xxbat_strip.jpg

After the glue has hardened remove and insert the player a few times to make sure there is no problem.

Mount switches

Cover the surface of the box with masking tape and mark the position you want the switches and carefully drill the holes.

Image:H1xxbat_shole.jpg

Now remove the tape and fit the switches.

Image:H1xxbat_switch.jpg

Cable entry

To make the cable more durable you could use heatshrink or a strain relief sleeve. I didn't bother as for a dock that isn't moving all the time it isn't really needed. File or drill a hole for the cable to pass through. Keep the hole small enough that when the bottom of the box is fitted it clamps onto the cable stopping the cable pulling out of the dock and damaging the wiring inside.

Image:H1xxbat_entry.jpg

Finished

Polish off any fingerprints and stray glue. You could also fit some thin black plastic across the top of the connectors inside the dock. Then when you look into the dock you will not see its guts.


Back to Customize Your H1xx


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This image is the bottom of the content box. Unfortunately, there is no information-based reason for this div to be here. It's just here for design reasons. Sorry.