H1XX and H3XX Series FAQ's

[SoulEata]

[Q] How do I permanently delete the 'System Volume Information' folder?

Answer:

The author does not know the permanent consequences of removing this folder from the drive

After you connect your iRiver, navigate to the Desktop.

-Right-click 'My Computer'.

-Select 'Properties'

-In the Properties Dialog, select the 'System Restore' tab

-Select the H300 drive in the list, then click the 'Settings' button

-Check the 'Turn off System Restore' box, and press OK.

-Press OK again to close the Properties dialog

-All done!

[gorcorps]

Q: Boot-up hangs on “read file system.” What can I do? (usually caused by rockbox)

This just happened to me and I’m going to share how I fixed it. In my case the rockbox firmware did something somewhere that the original firmware didn’t like or couldn’t read. This doesn’t mean that you can’t use rockbox, as this isn’t a common problem and it usually won’t happen again after you fix it the first time. It’s like chicken pox!

Solutions:

1.) Fully charge player:
-this usually doesn’t fix the problem but some have said that’s all it took for them

2.) Run scandisk/error check on your dap
-This has worked for many people, but not me. Open up My Computer and right click on your drive, then click properties. Then click the tools tab and click the check now button in the error-checking section. Follow any other directions and wait. Make sure that the usb cable is in tight and it’s a very good idea to have the power cable in as well. If your dap lost power or the connection during this process you’d have a messed up hard drive that wouldn’t be so easy to fix.

3.) Back-up and fully reformat the dap
-This is what worked for me. Make sure you have a backup of everything on your dap, then right click the drive in My Computer and click format. Don’t do a quick format as it won’t do any good, and make sure you format in FAT32 and not NTFS. If you have an h140 or other 40gig dap you can’t use windows’ built in format tool. You have to download another like Swissknife for free.

If you’ve done all these things and it still doesn’t work, then you may have a faulty drive on your hands. Email or call iRiver and see if they’ll replace it for you. iRiver America’s phone # is 1-800-399-1799. For another country’s info or email just go to www.iriver.com and pick the country you need.

Note: All directions are for windows XP, if you have another OS and these directions no longer apply, you may not have the right built in tools or you have to look somewhere else for them (like start-accessories-system tools). I’m sure that windows 2000 has these tools but I’m not sure about anything older.

Info: I got lots of info about this and other stuff here, so I'm more of a messenger to those who haven't checked rockbox yet: http://www.rockbox.org/twiki/bin/vie...are_no_longer_

[jaysee]

http://debating5.tripod.com/iriver.pdf

Info on:
Choosing a player
Purchasing a player
Copying music from CD -> computer
Choosing a bitrate
Getting music from tape/record to computer
Connecting player to computer
Putting music on player

More to come!

(search terms: H300, H320, H340, buy, cheap, rip, software, bitrate, vinyl, tape, record, connect, computer, charge, usb)

[Hujra]

That's right folks, we can now resume our playlists from any song (unfortunately not from point of pause/stop).

It's quite simple.

1. Turn on your (in my case, H340) DAP.

2. If not in "Music" section, press and hold 'record' (circle) button above [A.B]

3. Once in music section, press [A.B] once (to view list of playlists).

4. Select Playlist (Up/Down and then NAVI or PLAY to select).

5. Playlist begins playing from start of playlist.

6. Enter your file tree navigation (during music playback, push NAVI once (if DB Scan is switched ON, push NAVI twice).

7. Scroll/Navigate to the last file you were listening to (when you paused/stopped playback).

8. Press [A.B] only ONCE to queue the selected track (will return to playback screen).

9. Wait until song finishes, or press >> (FF or skip - for those with different dialects).

10. BINGO!! Enjoy resumable playlists in all of their yummy goodness.

NOTE: Feel free to jump, scream, party, send me gifts, you know, whatever
NOTE: Obviously this works for H3xx's, my friend has a H10, and I believe she can view her playlists (contents) anyway - not sure though.
NOTE: The bigger one's are appreciated (i.e. $50, $100, etc.)

[Sanitarium]

I had a crackeling headphone socket on my H300 and it was really annoying.
I figured out that there was a something wrong on the inside.
I fixed it in about mins, Here is how I did it.

1) Take off the back of the H300.
2) Then when you get to the circut board you need to find the headphone socket. It is really easy To find.

3) Then Go to the place i have marked on the picture and with a little flathead screwdriver, you need to apply some preasure to try and bend the two little bits of metal down a little small bit. Not too much, just enouch to make the seal around the socket and the plug tight enough.
DO NOT PUSH THEM IN TOO MUCH!!!
4) Then plug the earphones back in and see if it is a nice fit.
5) But the H300 back together and then test it out.

This works in most cases and if the problem persists, try blowing in the headphone socket to remove and dirt or dust thet might be in there.

I, Sanitarium, Take no resbonsility to what happens to you DAP in the process in the process of trying to fix your DAP while following my instructions.

[avenger107]

When using a playlist, just press and hold OFF for a few seconds until the unit powers down. This seems to put the DAP into a state similar to hibernation in some PCs.

When powering back up, press ON briefly two times. The first time a generic playing screen is displayed with the total number of songs folders and songs shown. The second brief press of ON and the song resumes right where it was when turned off. The playlist is loaded and continues to play just as if it had never been interrupted. No NAVI tricks or manual queuing required. Boot time is also much faster than normal, as the start screen is bypassed completely.

This is with 1.28k firmware on US 340.

[andrewmel]

Some time ago, nookia made up a reference card for the H3xx players. The original post is here

Quick Ref card for the H300

Here it is....

[NPswimdude500]

Warning

Since drive technology moves at a rather rapid pace, and for the sake of easy editing, this FAQ will remain unlocked. Please refrain from posting, as it is still an FAQ, and all posts in this thread WILL be deleted by a mod/admin. If you have any questions/suggestions feel free to PM me and I'll do my best to answer them .

Change Log

2005.10.31 - Complete overhaul.
2005.11.05 - Links.
2005.12.23 - Pricing info.
2006.01.09 - Update on MK8007GAH; grammar fixes from "Gb" to "GB"; info on Dapstore.
2006.01.24 - Added link to bluey_02's thread on hdd replacement, added information on Apple branded drives.
2006.01.28 - Removed DAPstore info.

2006.01.31 - Added drive sources, link to Swissknife program download.
2006.03.09 - Fixed a glaring error regarding ZIF connectors, added a much-needed disclaimer for that reason.
2006.03.11 - Added Astec's Toshiba Drive Sources FAQ to the Drive Sources Section.
2006.03.19 - Separated 1xx and 3xx information into their respective threads, adding pictures.
2006.05.08 - Removed link to Astec's Toshiba Drive Sources FAQ.
2006.05.29 - Added PCUpgrader link in Drive Sources section.
2006.05.31 - Fixed link.
2006.06.02 - Added link to my thread.
2006.06.16 - Fixed bits and pieces, added PICTURES!
2006.07.18 - MK4007GAL info, added link to Mike's thread, minor changes.
2006.07.19 - Added VTec link.
2006.07.21 - Changed ewiz link.
2006.10.28 - Added memorylabs link.
2006.12.18 - Added link to thread by michael.conner

[Modern Executive]

HEADNOTE: Sorry; this is a long post. For the gist of what I said, look for the stuff in bold.

It had gotten to the point that I was beginning to think that my player was invincible. Not only had I used it extensively as my personal jukebox, but I had also it used it extensively as a class lecture recorder, I took it with me on airplanes, I dropped it probably 10 times from 4', and I had also operated on it half a dozen times. No doubt, the H300 architecture can take a licking, it appeared to have the right stuff to keep on ticking.

But it was ticking that concerned me yesterday as I tried to transfer a week's worth of lectures to my main computer. Particularly, it was ticking coming from my H320's HDD. A lot of ticking. And in the same rhythm and pattern. I checked the computer to see if it reported anything unusual. Sure enough, it was not long before the "data error - cyclic redundancy check" problem came up.

I had seen the CRC threads before on misticriver, but I had never read them seriously. They probably abused their players, I figured. Besides, my player was invincible. I would never have something so serious as a CRC error. Or so I told myself. After swallowing my pride, I searched around to catch up on the months of crc error discussion I had missed. It was for my own good -- or at least my player's good. No, wait -- my wallet's good.

I came across numerous threads that were helpful. One thread would have a bit of good advice here. Another would have another alternative. I tried them all and was able to get the essential stuff off the drive and prep it for RMA. But a quick call to iRiver America Tech Support led me to a simple solution that appears to have saved my player from a trip to Milpitas. My goal in starting this thread is to give others a head start in the event that they would need to know what I have spent the past day researching. The following assumes you have a Windows XP system and don't feel strange poking around with the command prompt (read: start -> run -> cmd.exe -> ok button).

1. If you're using your player as a backup drive, or if you are like me and use your player as a recorder, you're probably going to have files that you will want to get off of there. After using the windows explorer to move the unaffected files to a safe place, and after finishing using the player as a backup HDD or whatever, get to your command prompt and type:
CHKDSK e: /r
the /r is like the /f switch, which fixes errors on the disk. /r performs the /f operation but goes one step further, though, and roots out bad sectors on the disk and does what it can with the file system to recover readable information. What it can't recover, it patches so that you can go back to the windows explorer and extract the rest of the files from your player.
2. With the files extracted, you'll probably want to do some sort of sophisticated scandisk check. Such a check may reveal whether the player's drive just has bad sectors or whether the drive has graver problems. For this, you might want to consider using tools from Norton, O&O Defrag (for surface evaluation) or SpinRite.*
3. If you're dealing with bad sectors, try this:
a. Do a format of the drive through the firmware. Hold Navi -> Click on General -> Click on Format -> Click Navi twice. This will erase what's on your drive.
b. Do a quick format of the drive through Windows XP. My Computer -> right click H300 -> format -> click box for "quick format" -> MAKE SURE THAT THE FILE SYSTEM IS SET TO "FAT32" -> click "Format." It should only take a mintue. This, too, will erase what's on your drive.
Doing this should not only erase what's on your drive but it also seems to completely rewrite the FAT. I wish I knew more about how this works, but it seems to wipe clean the whole FAT and refresh it with a new one. To some, this might make perfect sense. To others, it suffices to say that the drive seems to forget that it had bad sectors in the first place -- either that or the sectors that were bad forget that they were bad.
c. For good measure, you might want to do a full format of the drive instead. To do this, follow 3b but ensure that the "quick format" box is not checked. This will probably take 10 minutes or so, depending on the speed of your computer and the USB connection.
The format(s) is/are what fixed my bad sectors. Follow up surface scans revealed that the bad sectors no longer existed, or if they did exist, they had been repaired. I don't know how, but I wish I did. I'm probably oversimplifying, but hopefully not by much.
4. To make sure that the bad sectors have not just forgotten the fact that they're bad, consider exercising the drive's read/write capabilities. To do this, I wrote a batch program** that filled the player's drive with 9,783*** copies of a 1,954 KB (2,000,000 bytes) text file.**** I then wrote a program that copied those text files from the player back to the hard drive.***** if it made it through both operations without a hangup, I was satisfied that my drive was probably ok.

So, why have I posted this? Mainly, to help others who might be experiencing data/CRC errors avoid the pain of RMAing their players. iRiver is out of h320s and it's only a matter of time before they're out of h340s. If you are experiencing CRC errors on your h300 player, your RMA might net you an h10. And it seems like that would suck. Rather than write off your player's HDD and start shopping for a replacement, or worse, write off your iRiver and start shopping for an iPod, try these steps to see if the problem is as bad as you think.******

--------------------BEGIN FOOTNOTES-------------------------
* A note about SpinRite: using it reminded me of the MS ScanDisk from way-back-when. You can navigate its tools using full screen ANSI menus, and it will give you an ASCII surface map displaying the drive's details. And just like the scandisk of yore, it is SLOW. AS. MOLASSES. Completing just the first level of scanning alone on my h320 would have taken at least 35 hours. If one were concerned about recovering as much data as possible and if the windows chkdsk solution wouldn't cut to muster, SpinRite would probably be helpful. For me, though, keeping my file as perfect as it could be wasn't worth the time it would take (over 144 hours for a level 5 repair). To SpinRite's credit, though, it was useful primarily for its graphical display of the drive, just so I could see where the bad sectors were. Also, it allowed me to determine the start points and stop points of its scan, so I was able to focus on the trouble spot. To illustrate, my drive's bad sector was about 40% of the drive from sector 0. SpinRite could be programmed to ignore 0% - 39% and 41% - 100%, vastly cutting down on the time it would take to do a scan. And from what I understand, it packs a seriously powerful set of data recovery tools. I would have liked to test them, but I performed the chkdsk operation first. After doing that, there was no point in recovering more data.

** The syntax of the write batch program is as follows:
@echo off
c:
cd\docume~1\default\ desktop\fillh320
set A=1
:alpha
set B=%A%
for /f "tokens=*" %%q in ('dir *.txt /b') do ren "%%q" "%A%.txt"
copy /-y *.txt "e:\"
set /a A=%B%+1
if %a%==9783 goto end
goto alpha
:end

You might want to change the drive letters or directories as needed.

*** Why 9,783? Because 9,784 would result in the drive being completely filled, giving me a 0000 files/0000 folders problem and preventing me from reconnecting to the PC for the read program. I was banking on the suspicion that my bad sectors were somewhere at the 40% mark of the drive and that if I used DOS, I wouldn't have too many problems with fragmentation. I suppose if you look at the problem strictly, I didn't eliminate the possibility that there were bad sectors anywhere on the drive. I came to a 99.99% good-enough-for-government-work certainty, though.

**** the 2,000,000 byte file was created in notepad. It was just a string of 1s saved into a text file.

***** the syntax of the read batch file is as follows:
@echo off
c:
cd\docume~1\default\ desktop\fillh320
set A=1
:alpha
set B=%A%
move e:\%A%.txt c:\docume~1\desktop\ desktop\fillh320
del %A%.txt
set /a A=%B%+1
if %a%==9783 goto end
goto alpha
:end

The thing I like about this program is that it will delete the text file from your computer's drive after it has been read off the player. This way, you won't find your computer overloaded with 20 or 40 GB of text files. Again, you might want to change the drive letters or directories as needed.

****** I just wanted to wrap up this post with another pointless footnote. Thanks for your indulgence.


There is a copy of this post in a thread that will allow for discussion here

Potential Solutions to the Cyclic Redundancy Check Error Problem

[Larsie]

Hi all,

Today I was browsing the Korean iRiver site (fun to do even if you don't understand it like me (nice tools over there, just click a bit here and there)). I found a cool program called iRiver LDB Manager.

Some of you already found a way of using lyrics with the text viewer. I found a more 'professional' way (easier is a better word :P ). The lyrics are added to the file itself.

Pro's:

• Automatically adding lyrics
• Searches through a database on the internet
• Preview section

Down's:

• Database (probably owned by iRiver) is not very big, it will only find the popular songs.
• Some strange translated English (e.g. I don't understand the setup, I think they mean that LDB updates the ID3 tag )
• Not very stable (e.g. If your internet connection fails while downloading or searching lyrics it will crash)

'How does it work?'

Very easy....

At first: Select your player (in the second picture marked as 1 and 2) at 1 you select H and at 2 300

Step 2: Select the files you want to add lyrics to (ctrl + click on the files or shift from the first to the last file you want)
Then press marking (the button at the top with the pencil)

Don't be scared by the picture the program is also available in English

Note: Some (or most) of the files will not be updated automatically.



Manual lyrics: You can add lyrics to files manually by pressing editor (the one with the scissor) Press Text edit and type or copy all the text (separated by RETURN) you can for example use google and search on phrases like Lyric, title, artist. Then play the file and press set sync (or press SPACE) every time you hear the next line



convinced?

Download it here
Official H300 LDB Page here (Korean)



When you're finished it will look something like this:
<picture will be posted tommorow, I promise>

Note: You can't see which song you're playing. If you want to see which song is playing turn of Tag information (hold NAVI untill you see the config menu go to 'display' and turn 'Tag Information' off)



Etcetera:

For mods/admins, Maybe this would fit nicer in the Software FAQ but it's not available for all iRiver players. If you want to feel free to move it but please leave a (sticky?) link here because most H300 users didn't know this feature and used the text viewer instead.



Only tested with 1.28K Firmware, I will test it soon in the E(european) version. Can someone test it with the US version?



'Help, I carefully appleid all these points and it still doesn't work!'

Probably you've turned off the Tag information, turn it on again in the Config menu (hold NAVI untill you see the config menu go to 'display' and turn 'Tag Information' on)

p.s: This won't affect other players, so don't worry that your computer or anything else could affect playing your files

Have fun

[SoulEata]

[Q] Does flashing to US firmware from US firmware mean I lose DRM?


A: No.

Provided you have never flashed to international firmware, which as of 12/1/2005 does include Rockbox, you WILL NOT lose DRM capabilities. Flashing from U.S. firmware to another U.S. firmware means you keep DRM. Only flashing to an international version means there will be a loss.

[andrewmel]

So you have just upgraded to 1.29 K, and when you turned it on the screen was full of Korean characters.

1.29 K is the first firmware to do this, and here is the solution.

Turn player on.
Hold (not press) the Navi button.
From the menu select the first option by just pressing (not holding) the Navi button.

Go to the second menu option by pressing the (-).
Then select that by pressing Navi.

Use the (+) to go up the options, until you see English.

Select that.

There you go

a

[Denny]

This guide should cover the process of installing both ionity batteries (no longer available) and replacement ipod batteries such as those made by Newertech. Note that it requires the iriver be disassembled which will void your warranty.

If you are reading through this guide and debating whether to go ahead or not then there is another option to consider. Misticriver has its own replacement service here [LINK].

What Battery to use and where to buy it

Any first or second gen ipod replacement battery should work. Smaller capacity (<1700mAh) batteries will fit better than the larger capacity 2200mAh ones.

Saints created this thread in which links to sources of batteries can be found:LINK [click me]

Useful Stuff to have:

Set of small flat-head and Phillips screwdrivers.
A few small secure boxes.
A Large working space: helps when you drop a screw.
A knife with a broad blade.
Pair of tweezers.
Optionally a small sharp knife/penknife

Replacing the battery

There are two methods for changing the battery: one involves Switching the polarity by changing the wires at the molex plug, the other is to cut and then splice or solder the wires. Although splicing or soldering avoids completely disassembling the unit but there is allot more to go wrong. If you are completely happy with performing such procedures on such thin wires then it may be worthwhile but i cant recommend it.

There is also a video here [link] with an alternative method to the one below. Please note: That video guide does not include the polarity swap essential to all ipod batteries except ones bought from the people who made the video.

This guide describes how to do it the first way.

Step 1 - removing the H300's back case

First, you need to remove the five screws from around the sides of the unit, There are two at the bottom and one on each of the other sides. The ones at the bottom are longer than the others so when it comes to rebuilding the unit remember where they go.

After that the back of the case can be pulled off by hand. If it wont move then wedge a knife under it at one edge and lift it off.

Do not attempt to remove the front now, it will not budge.

Step 2 - removing the hard drive and padding

Now that the back case is off you should see the battery, carefully move it to one side (it will still be attached).

Next, remove the metal piece ringed in red by simply pulling it upwards:



See also: http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y19.../metalbit2.jpg

Then remove the blue padding covering the hard drive (it may feel like it is stuck on but should peel off easily).

The hard drive can be removed by gently lifting it up and pulling it in the direction of the red arrow (away from the pins that connect it):


Sorry about the image quality on this one, it was taken with my phone camera.

Place the hard drive somewhere safe and remove the next piece of blue padding.

Step 3 - Removing the front case of the iriver

You should now be able to see the circuit board of the h300. There are eight screws holding the front case to the rest of the unit, these must all be removed.

This photo shows where they all are. Be very careful not to forget the one behind the hard drive connector. The 'hidden' screw also holds a piece of metal in place, put that with the screws.



This part is where some tweezers come in handy. Use them to remove the screws from the board once they are unscrewed.

Once all the screws are out the front can be pulled off in the same way as the back but to help get it off do the following:

Push a small flat head screwdriver down between the black plastic making up the side of the case and the metal prongs which the screws on the side screw into:



Keep pushing until the side part separates like so:



Repeat this on the other side of the case. The front should now come off easily.

Step 4 - detaching the old battery

You should now see this:



The molex is highlighted.

To remove the molex I find the following method the easiest:

Look through the back of the case so that you can see the bottom of the molex plug. The carefully align a flat-head screwdriver up with the bottom of the molex plug like so:



Next, try to get the player into the position shown in the next photo. This can be fiddly.



Move the screwdriver in the directions of the arrows, but don't press upwards to hard. The molex plug should pull out quite easily.

Step 5 - Reversing the polarity on your new battery NOTE: this is for ipod replacement batteries only. If you have a Cameron Sino battery then it may have the correct polarity for use in H300's. Usually compatible batteries have a sticker saying they are designed for iriver models on the packaging but this is not always the case. If you are unsure of your batteries polarity then using a multimeter to check it against the original is advisable.

This is the fiddliest bit of the whole process.

Before you begin it is a good idea to note which wire goes into which side of the molex.

The wires are held in the plug by two plastic prongs which can be seen in this photo:



To remove the wires from the plug, use a very small flathead screwdriver or knife to gently lift up one of the prongs:



Some have reported that the metal sheath at the end of the wires can be pulled off when using a screwdriver, and found a knife better for this step, but this has never happened to me.

Once you have a situation like the one in the picture the wire under that prong can be easily pulled out.

Be very careful not to short the wires when you are doing this. Shorting the battery can damage it

Repeat this with the other wire and simply push the wires into the opposite holes they were in before. Make sure you put them in the right holes (the note made earlier helps), because as simple as it sounds I got mixed up once.

Thread the molex and wires through the back of the case and plug the molex back into its socket. Just carefully push it in.

Step 6 - Testing and Rebuilding

You may want to add an inskin [link] to the player now as the case is easily accessible.

The first thing to check is that the battery is connected properly. To do this just try powering on the player whilst it is dissembled (it does not matter if the hard drive is plugged in or not). Batteries are usually shipped with 60% capacity so if the connection is ok it should turn on. If the player fails to power on it could be the battery has gone flat in storage (If you are a rockbox user please also check the 'For rockbox users' section below). Plug in the charger and leave it for about half an hour. Unplug it and try again. If it still will not turn on then there is probably a connection issue (note that some players will display the 'charging' message when the AC-adaptor is plugged in even if no battery connection is present, so this is not a basis to test whether the battery is connected properly). Try re-seating the molex plug and make sure the wires are pushed far enough into the molex. If it still wont work then there may be other problems with your player, or the battery may be faulty/dead.

Next check that you have left no dust or fingerprints on the LCD or the inside of the front case's screen. Its very frustrating if you put the unit back together and the display is dirty.

Push the front case onto the player until it clicks in place. Turn the player over and replace the screws to the circuit board. Tweezers help allot when doing this. Don't forget to replace the small piece of metal removed from behind the hard drive connector in step 3.

Replace the bottom piece of padding, then plug the hard drive back in. The HDD should fit snugly into the bottom piece of padding.

Replace the topmost padding and the metal piece shown in step 2 :[link - click me]

Most batteries will fit into the remaining space without much trouble, there should never be any need to leave out the blue padding. You can/should remove the black sponge padding from the inside of the back case if you have a larger battery.

Also, if you have a big 2000mAh+ battery it is recommended that you sand/grind down the metal protrusions inside the back case (see pic below). This helps reduce pressure on the battery and hard drive, and also prevents the protrusions denting and therefore damaging the battery.



Next, Fit the battery into the back part of the case and line it up as if you are going to replace the back. Make sure that the wires from the battery are tucked down the side of the hard drive so they wont be squashed. Push the case back on.

It is unlikely the large batteries will fit as easily as with the old battery but if you gently squeeze the case closed when you are replacing the screws around the side of the case it should be fine. As well as that trimming some of the foil from the side of the battery (down the side where the foil wraps around there should be some excess) can help. Batteries of similar proportions to the old battery will fit with no trouble.

Remember to put the long screws into the bottom of the unit.

Finally, turn your modded iriver on and enjoy.

Side effects of battery replacement

> Longer charge time. The battery should take longer to charge but in some instances it can take excessively long. If the battery has been charging for over 4h 30min (from flat) then try turning the unit on and off(while its still plugged in) and the iriver firmware will usually display the 'complete!' message. It is unclear whether this damages the battery but mine is still going strong after a year and its always been like this.

> Hard drive noises / 'Check HDD connection' message. These can be caused by the battery putting pressure on the hard drive. This happened to me and all I did was open up the unit and shift the battery a little. Constant dropping had somehow moved the battery.

This will also be caused if the battery balloons. This can occur with faulty batteries and any batteries that do this should be disconnected and thrown away, do not pierce them.

Check www.batteryuniversity.com for more info on ballooning batteries and other info on batteries in general.

> Warming up during charging. The batteries can produce allot of heat when in the initial stages of charging (from flat) this is normal, although the unit should not get hot.

For Rockbox Users

Important: When booting the first time after reconnecting the battery, the screen may stay black because of an issue in the bootloader. Force a boot into the original firmware *once* to turn the backlight on.

You can change the capacity of the battery in rockbox once the new battery is fitted. (General Settings > System > Battery Capacity) This is so that the time remaining can be calculated correctly. This has no effect on runtime.


If you need any more info or have a question PM me.


*DISCLAIMER* I accept no responsibility for people damaging their irivers whilst carrying out the process above. Nor do accept responsibility for any damage occurring as a result of battery replacement.

[andrewmel]

You can find links to the firmware for the H3xx here

http://www.misticriver.net/wiki/inde...ware_Downloads

a

[NPswimdude500]

**A work in progress**

This FAQ is designed to accompany the 1xx/3xx HDD Upgrade FAQs. It is an attempt to create a list of links to sites that sell hard drives compatible with the 1xx and 3xx series of players. I have highlighted the prices in four colors. Green indicates a good price, Black indicates a reasonable price, Orange indicates a price on the expensive side, and Red indicates a ridiculously expensive price. Why include them all you ask? Because this is a resource, and should include as many sources as possible.

Drives compatible with the 120/320

Toshiba MK2006GAL (20GB)
Ewiz.com ($89)
Span.com ($109)
Serverpartswarehouse .com ($119)

Toshiba MK3006GAL (30GB)
Ewiz.com ($100)
Span.com ($128)