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Tutorial: How to get USBOTG to work with US iriver H3xx Tutorial: How to get USBOTG to work with US iriver H3xx
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old December 25th, 2004, 10:04 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 110
Modding the Cyberpower Hub from the inside.
This tutorial is for modding the Cyberpower Hub from the inside. This will eliminate the need to carry around a wire(extension cable) and the mod is alot cleaner.

You must know how to solder to do this tutorial..If there are several guides on the internet(google)..it s really helpful to know how to solder...you can use it for variety of things....

Picture of this mod can be found here http://www.misticriver.net/photos/th....php?album=116
Please use them as reference while doing the mod.

Soldering tips.
1. use rosin before soldering.
2. Tin the soldering iron tip and the tip of the wire.
3. dont touch the the tip of the soldering iron

Things you need.
1. Soldering iron (15 watt preferable...25 watts max.):radioshack
2. Solder, Rosin :radioshack
3. Thin screw driver(flat head)
4. 2 SMALL wires(strip both ends) , wire stripper
5. Cyberpower hub
6. Switch (I have this one but i wish i could've gotten a smaller one http://www.radioshack.com/product.as...5Fid=275%2D401)
7. glue gun(not necessary..5 dollars at home depot)

When i say top i mean the part thats clear and has the cyberpower logo. The bottom is the battery panel...And front is the part when the small usb cable comes out of and the back is the part where there is nothing but 2 slits(these slits are important when you want to close the hub)

Step 1. Opening the Cyberpower Hub
To open this you need to push in the 2 clip located in the front behind the small usb wire. Behind the small usb wire on both sides you'll see a small clip/hook. What you want to do is push in the small clip/hook with a screw driver and then gently but firmly pull the top part at the same time...do it one side at a time...Then you should be able lift of the top of the cyber power hub without breaking anything. Notice the 2 slits on the back(just keep these in mind because you have to close the hub backwards)...

Step 2. Making a hole on the side for the wires to exit.
http://www.misticriver.net/photos/di...lbum=116&pos=0
I made the hole on the left side of the DC input.
I was lazy and made the holes using my soldering iron and then using a metal file to clean up.

Step 3. Connecting the first wire.
http://www.misticriver.net/photos/di...lbum=116&pos=1
There should already be a red wire connected on the right side near the batteries.We want to add our wire at the same connection. Normally you solder from the top but because we have to squeeze the wire in there you should solder from the top and keep the connection clean(if the connection is not done from the side or there is too much solder it will be difficult to close the hub...The picture in the link above will help...note how the red wire starts from teh same place as the other red wire and then goes along the back...around the batteries...out the hole we made in step 2.

Step 4. Scrapping/Stripping the red usb wire.
http://www.misticriver.net/photos/di...lbum=116&pos=2
Ok this is the hardest part..So please do it carefully and slowly...
Notice the small usb cable and the 4 wires(red,green,whit e,black, black(ground connected to the silver insulation wire))
Basically we want to expose the red wire as much as possible without cutting ANY of the connections...
Slowly cut the plastic insulation..and then try to expose the red wire by moving the other wires and the silver insulation wires to one side. Once you expose the red wire we want to scrap the wire coating off...I did this by first carefully touching the solderring iron on the red wire which melted alot of the outer coating...then i took a sharp knife SLOWLY scrapped off the red coating until there was a large enough exposure on it for me to solder on. The picture above shows the wire after it has been scrapped.

Step 5. Solderring the second wire.
http://www.misticriver.net/photos/di...lbum=116&pos=3
Solder the second wire on the exposed part of the red usb wire.Then have it exit from the same hole as the first wire.

Step 6. Testing the connection
Touch the 2 ends of the red wire together and the blue light should turn on. If it does all the connections should be ok

Step 7. Close the hub. (bit difficult)
To close the hub first hook the front 2 clips in. Then from the back(where the 2 slits are) use a thin screw driver to slightly bend the back and snap the end iinto place(you will probably need to do this one at a time and then push the top cover down to get it in place.)

Step 8. The switch
Solder on the wires comming out of the cyberhub to switch.. Check to make sure the switch works.

Step 9. Hot glue
Hot glue the switch on so it connections dont move.
http://www.misticriver.net/photos/di...lbum=116&pos=7
http://www.misticriver.net/photos/di...lbum=116&pos=6

Done .
Let me know if anyone had sucess with this.
Last edited by sirroot : December 25th, 2004 at 11:38 PM.
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old December 27th, 2004, 08:23 PM
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Posts: 18
Ok I have a quick question, and please don't jump on me for asking this but Im a little confunsed and I need some clarification. I have an olympus C50 and I contacted them and they said that it is compatable with the h320 and so I know it is compatable and so Im confused as to why you have to do all the splitting of the cables and stuff. Is this mod just for people that don't have cameras that are supported or is this a necessary MOD for ALL usbotg to work?

Thank you
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old December 27th, 2004, 08:33 PM
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one more question as well. Has anyone had success with opening up the iriver and modding it by sodering a wire as shown earlier?
another question is...getting usbotg to work is only possible for a us 320 by downloading the 1.25 korean firmware right? or am I wrong?
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old December 27th, 2004, 08:40 PM
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yes you need the 1.25 k firmware.

now the diff between the US and EU verions is that in the EU version the USBOTG port is powered as it should be (5v) on the US its on.

hence we have to use a powered hub to power any device and also to send power back to the iriver to let it know that its in host mode.
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old December 27th, 2004, 09:00 PM
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so what your basically saying is that even if I dont use a flash stick or a card reader I still have to do this mod? even if I connect the camera directly to the iriver? cus I mean doesnt the camera power itself?
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  #46 (permalink)  
Old December 27th, 2004, 09:26 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 110
Quote:
Originally Posted by evanwolves999
so what your basically saying is that even if I dont use a flash stick or a card reader I still have to do this mod? even if I connect the camera directly to the iriver? cus I mean doesnt the camera power itself?
if you have a US iriver and want to use USBOTG/connect it directly to a device...You have to do this mod or a similar mod. (there some very rare devices such as usb harddrives that seem to work without the mod...i seriously doubt that your camera is one of those rare devices)
There are 3 options all which have been tested and work.

1. Mod the h320 from the inside.
2. mod the extension cable
3. mod the cyberpower hub

1. Even if the device provides its own power it has to send power back to the iriver to let iriver activate host mode...Most devices will not send power back to the host device
2. The device(client) you connect to the h3xx(host) will wait for power to come FROM the host device to "activate client mode"..US H3xx does not send power...thats why the mod is needed..

i hope that answers your questions...
Last edited by sirroot : December 28th, 2004 at 01:01 AM.
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  #47 (permalink)  
Old December 29th, 2004, 01:19 PM
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One question.... instead of buying the host cable could I just take the end of any normal mini USB (isnt this the same size and pins and stuff?) and cut off the other end of the that and off another usb A cable the solder tehm how the adaptor is and to the hub?
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old December 29th, 2004, 08:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by endoscient
One question.... instead of buying the host cable could I just take the end of any normal mini USB (isnt this the same size and pins and stuff?) and cut off the other end of the that and off another usb A cable the solder tehm how the adaptor is and to the hub?
Its actually not the same size(although it will fit) also the pins are different(if i recall correctly). I would really suggest that you buy the host cable..there is a coupon code somewhere which gets you i think 10-15% off.

If you can solder i suggest doing the Tutorial on this page instead of the wire tutorial.
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  #49 (permalink)  
Old December 30th, 2004, 07:37 AM
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Send a message via AIM to Giuse86
Is there a picture of your new modded hub connected to the H3XX and a flash card or something so we can see the complete finished result in action?

Btw. this fixes my whole bulkiness issue from before thanks for the new Mod!
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  #50 (permalink)  
Old December 30th, 2004, 12:10 PM
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its has the same (5 pins) as the media port on the H300..... it is the same head.... but i think it is different a little bit later. then jsut cut of the head and solder it to a USB A female. i think just pin 4 and 5 jsut need to be bridged and that is what the dong does. so i can have that and do the internal hub mod shown above.
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  #51 (permalink)  
Old December 30th, 2004, 03:05 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 110
Quote:
Originally Posted by Giuse86
Is there a picture of your new modded hub connected to the H3XX and a flash card or something so we can see the complete finished result in action?

Btw. this fixes my whole bulkiness issue from before thanks for the new Mod!
Here is a pic of the iriver + cyberpower hub + sandisk 12 in 1 memory reader/writer

http://www.misticriver.net/photos/di...lbum=116&pos=8
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  #52 (permalink)  
Old December 30th, 2004, 05:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by endoscient
its has the same (5 pins) as the media port on the H300..... it is the same head.... but i think it is different a little bit later. then jsut cut of the head and solder it to a USB A female. i think just pin 4 and 5 jsut need to be bridged and that is what the dong does. so i can have that and do the internal hub mod shown above.
yes you are absolutely correct, i researched the USB connectors yesterday. see my post here (scroll down to #490): USB-ON-THE-GO works on U.S. H3XX！！！

but disregard the stuff about the DC-in power... skeil said it wont work.
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  #53 (permalink)  
Old December 30th, 2004, 09:09 PM
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ok... cool.... I am going to try to solder my own host dongle. with a USB-mini (b i think) and an extension cable. but which colors are pin 4 and 5? or more importantly which is 4 bc wouldnt 5 be the color that the USB A doesnt have?

edit from looking i think i need to solder then one that isn't white, black, green, or red to the black because in http://www.networktechinc.com/technote.html u see pin 5 is teh ground (black) and looking at the thing in your post it all the others match to the colors. but there might be a problem.... the cable i ahve might not haave a wire out of pin 4 at all and just be on the head, u think that would happen?
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  #54 (permalink)  
Old December 30th, 2004, 10:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by endoscient
ok... cool.... I am going to try to solder my own host dongle. with a USB-mini (b i think) and an extension cable. but which colors are pin 4 and 5? or more importantly which is 4 bc wouldnt 5 be the color that the USB A doesnt have?

edit from looking i think i need to solder then one that isn't white, black, green, or red to the black because in http://www.networktechinc.com/technote.html u see pin 5 is teh ground (black) and looking at the thing in your post it all the others match to the colors. but there might be a problem.... the cable i ahve might not haave a wire out of pin 4 at all and just be on the head, u think that would happen?
you are correct in that a premade Mini-B wire will not have anything connected to pin 4 at all. what you have to do is bridge it right on the H300's female port, there was a picture somewhere (i gotta find it.. it was 1cf2's). i'm not sure of any colors, as i haven't yet dissected any usb cables myself.

EDIT: here's the pic: http://www.misticriver.net/boards/at...tachmentid=482
the way he put the jumper it doesn't interfere with the mating of the connectors.
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Flash Player: 256MB iRiver iFP-390, UMS 1.0
HD Player: 20GB iRiver H320 US, 1.27 K
Last edited by Mike13 : December 30th, 2004 at 11:08 PM.
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  #55 (permalink)  
Old December 30th, 2004, 10:40 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2004
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Posts: 8,886
i used to follow this thread but you guys have been so busy and posting heaps that i cant keep up. would it be possible for a few of you to get together and come up with some sort of summary of what you have worked out, how to make it work etc, make a new thread with this condensed info and approach the mods to make it sticky and maybe locked?

a
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  #56 (permalink)  
Old December 30th, 2004, 11:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewmel
i used to follow this thread but you guys have been so busy and posting heaps that i cant keep up. would it be possible for a few of you to get together and come up with some sort of summary of what you have worked out, how to make it work etc, make a new thread with this condensed info and approach the mods to make it sticky and maybe locked?

a
yeah sirroot and skeil and 1cf2 and everybody have done great work, only problem is i spent hours going through those 20+ page threads... should make it a locked FAQ
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Last edited by Mike13 : December 31st, 2004 at 07:25 AM.
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  #57 (permalink)  
Old December 31st, 2004, 07:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike13
you are correct in that a premade Mini-B wire will not have anything connected to pin 4 at all. what you have to do is bridge it right on the H300's female port, there was a picture somewhere (i gotta find it.. it was 1cf2's). i'm not sure of any colors, as i haven't yet dissected any usb cables myself.

EDIT: here's the pic: http://www.misticriver.net/boards/at...tachmentid=482
the way he put the jumper it doesn't interfere with the mating of the connectors.
oh.... is there any way to do that on the cable dont wanna break my port by mistake
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  #58 (permalink)  
Old December 31st, 2004, 07:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by endoscient
oh.... is there any way to do that on the cable dont wanna break my port by mistake
only if you were to buy a raw cable-mountable male plug from an electronics shop (that would have to be one fancy shop ) if you're snipping it off the mini-B end of a premade cable you don't have access to pin 4 at all because it will be "NC" (no connection). i think you either gotta do it 1cf2's way or buy the dongle.
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  #59 (permalink)  
Old December 31st, 2004, 01:11 PM
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probably will just buy a dongle....
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  #60 (permalink)  
Old December 31st, 2004, 01:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by endoscient
probably will just buy a dongle....
yeah me too lol
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  #61 (permalink)  
Old January 1st, 2005, 09:40 PM
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Something's wrong
Does anyone from iRiver actually read this site? I mean, when you've got to jump through so many hoops just to make it do things it should ANYWAY … and what exactly does that company have against the U.S. customers? It seems the U.S. product is inferior on many levels, and I can't understand why. Thoughts?
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