Alternative Chargers for the H300's - Page 2

**LAB DESIGN** · #41 (**permalink**) December 27th, 2005, 11:13 AM

Thats cool. Thanks for bringing it up though.
I bought that car adapter from RS when I was going on holliday and it was a bit of a rush decision.. I've only used it a few times with no problem.

EDIT: I have to point out again, that people have killed their players using an adapter of a higher voltage. I'd rather go slightly lower than a whole volt higher.

LD

lee35210 · #42 (**permalink**) December 30th, 2005, 09:18 AM

I'm using the PSU from a ZIP100 parallel drive with a new plug on end. 5VDC @ 2A. It's a xfmr based wall wart and I've been using for ~1yr with no problems charging or grd loops when used with AC powered headphone amp. Gives the "Charge Complete" message when fully charged. Probably find these at thrift stores and such. I always take a multimeter with me and plug them in and make sure they work b4 I buy. www.isellsurplus.com has these for just under $13USD last itme I looked. Use the RS plug mentioned in an earlier post and you're good to go.

amaker · #43 (**permalink**) December 31st, 2005, 10:39 AM

igot an igo w. tip B05 (meant for digi cameras), seems to be right-- 5vDC, 1.9a, matches stock charger polarity; no disasters yet... one catch though, it doesn't cause the "Charge Complete!" msg, even when testing seconds after the stock charger did.. any thoughts engineers? another paperweight to be? ...noting that per this thread the psp and muvu tips might work as well.

tawie · #44 (**permalink**) January 2nd, 2006, 04:28 AM

I have a charger for Sharp DR480 MD player, It's DC:5V, 0.8A, and I used it to charge the H340 now, and I found on this thread the suggest output current is 1.2A or 2A, what's the exactly mean for the output current? if it will a problem with 0.8A?

**LAB DESIGN** · #45 (**permalink**) January 2nd, 2006, 04:32 AM

Hi, I'll explain it as best I can..

The AC adapter is rated at 2Amps (maximum current output). The device only draws the current it needs. So if the device only needed 1Amp, the device would only draw 1Amp from the AC adapter.
Which is why using an AC adapter which can't supply the current needed, is just as bad as having an AC adapter with too high a voltage. In this case… more than > 5.5v

The maximum continuous current that the device needs is actually 1.7A.
So using an AC adapter which can not supply at least 1.7Amps is not suitable.

LD

tawie · #46 (**permalink**) January 2nd, 2006, 05:02 AM

thanks a lot.
I can understand the current require for H340 running, but If I only use this charger for charge ( don't startup the H340, only charge status, not play anything), It's no problem, is it correct?

**LAB DESIGN** · #47 (**permalink**) January 2nd, 2006, 05:09 AM

Hmmm... you got me. I am going to say 'use an adapter that meets the required specification'. There will be a difference in current with what the device needs to draw, between switch on and standby charging. I feel the adapter you've stated is too low at 0.8Amps.. Even 1.2amps is too low IMO.

LD

**Febs** · #48 (**permalink**) January 2nd, 2006, 05:23 AM

Isn't USB 500mA? If that provides sufficient currrent for the player to charge, then wouldn't an adapter be the same?

Also, LD, just curious, where did you get the info that the player draws 1.7 amps? That doesn't seem right, considering that a 1300mah battery will last 15+ hours.

**LAB DESIGN** · #49 (**permalink**) January 2nd, 2006, 05:28 AM

@ Febs, The links you posted in the thread '2 important Charging questions'.
I've been reading through some of it, and I could have mis-read parts.
I think the USB charging and adapter charging have different requirements.. Maybe I'm totally wrong.

LD

lostlogic · #50 (**permalink**) January 2nd, 2006, 08:38 AM

USB only guarantees 500mA, this is why the USB charge circuitry doesn't allow the device to be on during USB charging, it is only sufficient current to slowly charge the battery, not enough for full speed charging, or device operation. From glancing over the datasheets for the power hardware in the iRiver, it looks like it probably uses a different charge mode when charging from USB to avoid damage.

It may be possible for rockbox to have a setting where it would assume that the AC adapter is only going to supply USB current levels to allow charging from these low current supplies, or to have a setting for high power USB charging / operation.

The Sony PSP charge circuitry for USB actually offers two modes, one for slow USB charge and one for full speed USB charge. Most powered USB hubs will supply a total of 2A split between their ports (shared) and the PSP can take advantage of this by sucking more than 500mA to charge just as fast as an AC adapter. This does often disable any other devices connected to the hub, and if you use that mode on some USB ports, it can fry the port.

tawie · #51 (**permalink**) January 2nd, 2006, 05:23 PM

thanks, I test the DR480 charger last night, and It's work ok, but the charge time is double to the original charger, and it's time to complete is about 6 hours.
and I have seen some articles about the charge, they said that if you want protect the battery, you should charge it use 600ma current, It's the half of battery's capacity.
It's right?

tawie · #52 (**permalink**) January 2nd, 2006, 05:27 PM

and now a new question, how to use the battery pack is correct? what time? when the H340 internal battery full or low? and new 4 AA battery can use how long?

theabominable · #53 (**permalink**) January 18th, 2006, 08:14 AM

I've just started using my PSP charger seeing as I live in the UK and got an international H340 (which has the wrong plug, and I can't be bothered to buy an adaptor).

I hope this doesn't kill my battery...

Dunno · #54 (**permalink**) January 18th, 2006, 08:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by theabominable

I've just started using my PSP charger seeing as I live in the UK and got an international H340 (which has the wrong plug, and I can't be bothered to buy an adaptor).

I hope this doesn't kill my battery...

another 'Plug and hope' person, why didn't you check the charger's specifications BEFORE plugging it into your unit, I am utterly amazed at the folks that will just cross their fingers, close their eyes and hope that it will work, geez, just do a bit of reasearch, look at the specifications of your OLD one, is that so difficult to do. FFS....This forum is littered with deep fried players because of 'plug and hope'.

*takes a deep breath*, rant over.

**LAB DESIGN** · #55 (**permalink**) January 18th, 2006, 01:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dunno

another 'Plug and hope' person, why didn't you check the charger's specifications BEFORE plugging it into your unit, I am utterly amazed at the folks that will just cross their fingers, close their eyes and hope that it will work, geez, just do a bit of reasearch, look at the specifications of your OLD one, is that so difficult to do. FFS....This forum is littered with deep fried players because of 'plug and hope'.

*takes a deep breath*, rant over.

I couldn't agree more, this thread started out with good intentions.. It can't be made any clearer than to check the specifications.
Using an alternative AC adapter/charger is really a last resort.
There are links in the first post to genuine iRiver accessories. Entirely up to people if they follow them or not.

I still stand by using another adapter/charger to the exact specs, as listed in the first post.. according to the iRiver manual. Follow those, and all should be fine.

@ tawie, little late replying, but there are threads and FAQ's regarding battery packs.

LD

tawie · #56 (**permalink**) January 18th, 2006, 06:07 PM

yes, there are many essays about the battery pack, but not one assay give a beautiful answer, so some time later when I use the battery pack, I can give a detail test about it.

btw, the sharp md charger I use now for a long time, no problem found now.

Step666 · #57 (**permalink**) January 18th, 2006, 06:13 PM

Just to re-iterate what LD has said before:

Stick to 5v, 2A AC adaptors that you're certain have the same polarity as the iRiver charger, such as chargers for the PSP.

I've quickly scanned through this thread and seen people saying that they've used charger that are at a higher voltage than 5v.
Sure, this might work but there's always an increased chance you damage your player.

Such is the nature of electronics that if you exceed the above specification in any way, you may irrepairably damage your player.
You have been warned...

**LAB DESIGN** · #58 (**permalink**) January 19th, 2006, 01:15 AM

Astec123's Battery Pack guide:
http://www.misticriver.net/showthread.php?t=7695

LD

theabominable · #59 (**permalink**) January 19th, 2006, 05:35 AM

So you people think spending $50/£25 on an AC adaptor is justified when I've just spent almost $500 on the player...er I don't think so.

I've stopped using the PSP charger now, seeing as people were bursting blood vessels over it.

Just have to go back to USB charging...

Step666 · #60 (**permalink**) January 19th, 2006, 09:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by theabominable

So you people think spending $50/£25 on an AC adaptor is justified when I've just spent almost $500 on the player...er I don't think so.

What?

Quote:

Originally Posted by theabominable

I've stopped using the PSP charger now, seeing as people were bursting blood vessels over it.

Why?
The PSP chargers are safe.

What on earth are you on about?

theabominable · #61 (**permalink**) January 19th, 2006, 12:13 PM

Step666, just look at my above post, then at Dunno and LAB DESIGN's posts.

Step666 · #62 (**permalink**) January 19th, 2006, 05:43 PM

Ah, I see.

To be honest, they're probably over-reacting a touch.

I mean, it's not like you've just bought the first charger you found that had the right size plug on it, the PSP chargers (at least, the one you get from Sony) is known to be an identical specification to the iRiver charger for the H300s.
Obviously, then the after-market ones should be too, though there's no 100% guarantee.

If I were you, I'd use it though it may be best just to double-check the specification first.

takeMeToTheRiver · #63 (**permalink**) January 22nd, 2006, 08:55 AM

hi, sorry if this is clear from the stuff already here but i'm a bit scared and confused. i have a charger that sticks into my car cigarette lighter and can plug into a usb port. it says:

input dc 12v-24v
output dc 5.0v +/- 5% max 400mA

It looks like this has too much current to use with my H340, but I'm not sure. Can anyone clarify?

Thanks