What battery to buy, Where to buy it?

[Cyberflow]

Btw is it possible by touching the - and + wire from the battery that the battery isn't no more good ?


EDIT : Good news, my iRiver still works !

[outoforderdrummer]

I recentely installedy the 3.7v 2200 mah thats been recommended. The install went fine, but i have not yet been able to find the right charger for it. The old ones are 5v so i dont want to mess it up. I no alot of people have made this install and im curious where they were able to find the correct battery. THANKS

[saints]

Originally Posted by outoforderdrummer

I recentely installedy the 3.7v 2200 mah thats been recommended. The install went fine, but i have not yet been able to find the right charger for it. The old ones are 5v so i dont want to mess it up. I no alot of people have made this install and im curious where they were able to find the correct battery. THANKS

The one that came with the player is ok to use

[patty_1324]

i just bought a cameron sino battery from here: https://www.circuitcentral.com.au/pr...roductid=31091

i installed it today (had heaps of trouble with the molex plug) and it's been charging for a couple of hours but every now and then the screen turns on for 2 seconds then goes off again. and sometimes says 'complete!' then keeps charging. should I be worried??? It seems to happen when i press a button to see if it's still charging, then a couple of minutes later it will come on again. i don't think that the screen turns on if i just leave the buttons....but i havn't actually watched it charging for very long....any help greatly appreciated.

[Francis H120]

OK so I have just replaced the battery in my H120 with a Cameron Sino.
The first time I've done so, I embarked after reading advice on here.
So a few words on how I found it - a kind of "for newbs by a newb". I'm posting it here ("what battery to buy, where to buy it") since this is where I started asking about batteries but will also copy it to the "real difficulty of replacing batteries thread as it's relevant. Please note if you're a newb reading this you need to read http://www.misticriver.net/wiki/index.php/H1xx_Internal_Batter y_Replacement first and preferably other stuff in the threads mentioned too if you might prefer alternatives to taking the motherboard out and swapping the connector.

Having read about the 3 methods of connecting the new battery (taking the HD and motherboard out and swapping the connector, cutting the wires in the middle on the new and old batteries and soldering the old to new or de-soldering the both battery's leads from the battery PCBs and soldering the old lead to the new battery) I decided on cutting the wires as this sounded easiest to me.
First thing that caused a little hiccup was my assumption that being in a place with a lot of electronic tools (I'm a technician in a University) is that I could easily lay my hands on a T5 torx driver to open the case and get started. T5s are smaller than included in various 50+ piece kits we have. I got one of someone eventually but be warned they're unusually small. Also if you are cutting the wires make sure you have small enough heatshrink tube available, the wires are very skinny and remember tube that small won't shrink much.
Having got the case open and looked at how tight for space things are and how short and thin the wires are I started to question whether I had chosen the easy method. I looked at the battery PCB method. This would have been really easy (if you can solder) if both batteries had been like the old one, it simply had a piece of white tape over the PCB which was easily lifted and replaced. However the PCB on the Cameron Sino looked more buried. I made a careful experimental incision with a scalpel but did not readily reveal the solder terminals so decided not to chance butchering the battery I'd just bought but taped up and pursued my first choice. If I have to replace again I can dissect the old Cameron Sino to see if I was being over careful, as I say if so this seems an easy method.
So on to cutting the wires. I cut the wires close to the old battery to give me some length to work with. This meant I cut the new wires relatively close to the new one too as I was worried about the small seeming space to fold the wires into when reassembling. It would have been better to leave them about 1cm longer than the ones on the old battery as when you've soldered and heatshrunk the wires you have an inflexible section which really needs to run along the bottom of the motherboard when reassembling, with enough of the new lead to carry on in the same direction, be bent into a U and then make the return journey (I know that's probably got you scratching your head but if you have the player open in front of you it will make sense).
Having chopped the wires DON'T FORGET TO PUT THE HEATSHRINK ON. I didn't but I can imagine forgetting and getting mad. After stripping and tinning the ends of my wires and I then used a cassette case to lift the new battery so the wires on it were at the same height as the ones coming out the player. I'm a pretty dab hand with an iron but even I was nervy as the short lengths of wire make the soldering fiddly so be warned this is for experienced solderers only. Someone said they simply twisted the wires together, maybe this isn't such a bad idea (OK I still don't think I'd use it ). I'm going to try the HD and motherboard out and swap the molex too next time to compare, I hate taking small delicate things apart which is why I avoided it this time but only first hand experience is going to let you know which method is best for you I guess.
When shrinking the tube I took care, again because of the short length of wire - it meant I couldn't get the battery or player out of the way of the heat gun so I shielded them. The back of the unit covered the battery nicely and I used the plastic packet over the player and watched that for signs of warping as I shrunk as a kind of "dose meter"!
Having got all that done it was time to reassemble. The 2200mAH Cameron Sino is bigger than the original so I tried to follow advice I'd read about filing down some metal tabs to make more room (as I read the HD can stop working if it's squashed too much). These I discovered positioned the original smaller battery and were unnecessary with the new. However they're difficult to get at with a file. So I just inserted a flat screwdriver between them and the case and snapped them off by levering. Just make sure you support the case where it looks thin otherwise that might snap instead! I then filed the stumps smooth with a half round needle file.

Hopefully all is well but I'm not going to charge the unit until I can be around as when I got it it was only 2 months old so the battery in it should have been good. I assumed as it was used it would be part charged and would only require a short charge before use. I was at work so when the green charge LED hadn't gone out by the time I left I left it on overnight assuming it had some kind of "intelligent" charging system. However it seems I may have overcharged as the battery only gave me a few hours and the original owner (eBay job) said it was fine. Mind I think he'd been constantly doing small charges. Assuming a full charge and then disconnect immediately followed by use until fully discharged (what I try to do) is optimum does anyone know which the worse of the 2 alternatives (one of which you might to have to do if you can't baby-sit the thing while it's charging) is worse - doing short charges where the green LED hasn't gone out when you stop charging or leaving it on for some time after the LED has gone out (I'm talking hours not days here)?

[figg2112]

I had to replace my battery after the wrong charger was plugged into my old one and fried the battery.. ouch DON"T DO THAT, ITS BAD.. it was only in there for a second but the damage was done

So....I ordered and installed 2200mAh I-pod bat.

http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Newer.../BIPOD2200M12/

I followed the instructions Denny posted and made sure it got a full charge the first go around (with the right 5v charger)

But now I’m finding that if the h320 is not in use then the battery drains slowly over time.. I charged it fully but did not use it, one or 2 days later I turn it on and it will show a battery with only one bar. (A friend of mine who also has an I river h320 says that’s how his has been since he got his and simply keeps it on the charger when he is not using it.)

Also sometime when charging it gets really hot and sometimes it doesn’t.. I’m guessing that the higher voltage did more damage than just to the battery but everything else if fully fuctional. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks

[saints]

Hey figg2112, using the wrong charger will effect your motherboard not the battery, most people that use the wrong charger fry their players and they become unusable, maybe your lucky you can still use yours at all. You will have to replace the board, (but good luck in finding one)

[Black Violin]

Hi there!

I've been waiting for a couple of months before attempting to replace the battery in my H340 since it died in June.
Now I'm ready.

My question is mainly to "saints"...

After reading this thread I've noticed you didn't comment on the option to buy a battery, from the Sonnet Online Store.
So what would be the wisest choice to make, to get it here?
http://store1.sonnettech.com/product...roducts_id=156

Or here:
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Newer.../BIPOD2200M12/

If it's somewhat simple to explain which is better, please help.
Or are they basically the same and the only difference is the price?
Thank you for otherwise a splendid job at helping so many people with this battery problem!

[saints]

eshop.macsales is mentioned in my thread, they are highly recommended, sorry dont know much about sonnettech but a quick search found this thread
H340 battery replacement, and this thread New Batteries From Sonnet....Compatable?

[Black Violin]

Cool. Thanks...
It doesn't help very much, but I guess I have to try it myself, for there's no info on people either being happy or having problems with Sonnet one.
What I like about the Sonnet one is the fact that it's only $19.99 and comes with all the tools needed for the operation.

Cheers!

[theone1234]

what is the stock-capacity battery on an H340? I ordered a 2200mAh iPod replacement for my H340 and they ended up sending me a 1600mAh battery. I'm trying to see whether I should fight for the 2200 or just say forget it and stick with the new 1600mAh battery.

[gorcorps]

Originally Posted by theone1234

what is the stock-capacity battery on an H340? I ordered a 2200mAh iPod replacement for my H340 and they ended up sending me a 1600mAh battery. I'm trying to see whether I should fight for the 2200 or just say forget it and stick with the new 1600mAh battery.

stock is 1300, and if I were you I'd fight for the 2200... it's their fault they sent you the wrong one

[saints]

Originally Posted by theone1234

what is the stock-capacity battery on an H340? I ordered a 2200mAh iPod replacement for my H340 and they ended up sending me a 1600mAh battery. I'm trying to see whether I should fight for the 2200 or just say forget it and stick with the new 1600mAh battery.

The difference could cost you 4 hrs of playtime per charge, make a complaint.

[mmm-mmmI812]

Hi everbody!

I recently won a H320 from digital outlet- It powered on for ~hour.Tried a few more times w/less and less playback until it stopped powering on-Returned it-they said they replaced battery-got it back and same thing all over again. It seems to work fine w/AC adapter (but I haven't tried all functions yet) so I'm thinking it should be the battery. Digital Outlet said the only thing left to do would be to return for refund. Should I return or try replacing battery and risk not being able to return it. Thanks in advance for any input!!!!

[saints]

Originally Posted by mmm-mmmI812

Hi everbody!

I recently won a H320 from digital outlet- It powered on for ~hour.Tried a few more times w/less and less playback until it stopped powering on-Returned it-they said they replaced battery-got it back and same thing all over again. It seems to work fine w/AC adapter (but I haven't tried all functions yet) so I'm thinking it should be the battery. Digital Outlet said the only thing left to do would be to return for refund. Should I return or try replacing battery and risk not being able to return it. Thanks in advance for any input!!!!

If they replaced the battery and it still does the same it may be a problem with the motherboard, my advice is to get your money back

[mmm-mmmI812]

Thanks Saints!

I'm going to return it.

[Nork]

so i'm in the position to change my battery. considering the 1700 mah just 'cause i don't want to fiddle with the molex and i'm good about charging mine (never really need to go for days without it.)

[seth4ya]

I purchased an IPOD 1/2 gen replacement battery from eshop.macsales, followed the guide that Denny created and am now enjoying the long life of my new battery. Thanks Denny!

[media lint]

I picked up a Lenmar PMPIRH1 from Amazon ($32.99). They seem to be readily available elsewhere as well.

It seems identical to the original and there was no polarity switching involved. Thanks to the handy guide I found here I got it swapped out without incident and everything seems to be working fine. I doubt I'll get longer life than the original but my H340 is about two years old so I figure if this gets me another two years I've outlived the life expectancy of an iPod by about ... oh, four years

My workplace office recycles all sorts of batteries so it was easy to get rid of the dead one too.

Cheers and thanks for the advice and the very useful install guide.

- tim

[LittleSmasher]

I bought the Maplins iPod replacement battery [2200]. Three weeks later = ballooning battery.

Thought it must be a one off so I got another one.

Two weeks later = ballooning battery.

I need my iRiver to work. Currently scouring internet for one of the above named batteries to be UK delivered.

Good luck everyone

[jimdearras]

I bought one of those eBay $20 delivered from Hong Kong 2200 ma batteries back in august, and have not had a bit of trouble from it.

Jim