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Wireless remote control mod
It should be pretty straightforward to wire up one of these:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...tem=5980114968 to the buttons of an LCD remote control so you end up with a totally wireless iRiver H player. Pros: Fully wireless remote control of your player, no line-of-sight annoyance as with infra-red because it works on radiowaves, no need to know how a remote control works or need of chip programming etc. Cons: You need a 12v power supply for the RF receiver and you won't be able to use the LCD remote as a normal portable remote. Does anyone know if the H3xx non-LCD remote works on the H1xx? the seller also has some 4 button remote kits of which I've ordered one and it'd be a lot easier to wire one of those up to a non-LCD remote (and less expensive if you screw things up) |
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The RF receiver has relays on it so you can hook them up to almost any electronic device that uses buttons without worry of frying anything, the relays effectively isolate the receiver from the LCD remote (or whatever you want to control) so there's no electronic contact between the two. To control a button you put two wires on the actual button's solder points on the LCD remote, then connect those wires up to one of the relays, et voila one totally remotely controlled button - then repeat for the other 10 buttons... Quote:
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Then again, you could try getting your hands on one of the things mentioned in this thread and adapting it... |
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Oh I put the wrong link in, the seller I bought my 4 channel kit from is based in Hong Kong and has cheaper prices including the postage (especially for anyone outside the US):
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...tem=7521507542 |
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http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...tem=5780106462 Figuring out what signals that outputs and then figuring out what signal the iRiver needs and then making circuitry to connect the two seems just a little too much work for something that might not. |
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Yeah, that looks like it.
Though you're probably right. A lotta hastle for what might turn out to be a turkey. And what with it being an iPod accessory, it's a bit too expensive to get just on the off-chance |
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i was thinking more on a wireless remote without a LCD... on rockbox site they published the table of resistor values referring to each button. so what i need to do is find a plug, build a resistor matrix and find out a way to activate the right set of resistors (i think) and with the right plug the headphone out could be left free to connect to the hi-fi or whatever.. but that's just an idea
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another crazy idea is to make a "click wheel" remote
i.e. use a mouse wheel as a shutter (is this the word?) for the up and down button and the click for navi, so the navigation could be speedy enough. in case you're wondering.. no i don't use drugs |
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Maybe u should consider taking some drugs - like ritalin! :P Haku: Amazing idea, let us know how it goes, mite just get one of these!
__________________
Duck Tape, Its like the force: It has a light side a dark side and holds the universe together.
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Well I found out the non-LCD remote works on the H1xx series and someone on these boards was selling one so I bought it
If all goes well it should arrive midweek with the RF remote kit arriving around the same time or a few days after, then I'll be able to do a full test of a wireless iRiver remote! Time to load up my H120 with a bunch of decent tracks from my H140 and use the optical cable from my DVD player... the DVD player's optical out is screwed but I have an identical player boxed away as a backup |
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I got an non-LCD remote now (thanks Sir Arthur) and ripped it open only to find out how to properly open it up without damaging the 'shell'
Looking at this page and the circuitry on the LCD remote it seems as though I can very easily add a Stop button to the 4-button RF remote setup so then I'll have; Stop/PrevTrack/PlayPause/NextTrack controllable by the RF remote (when it arrives) When I've got it all working I'll post pics as well as how to properly take apart a non-LCD remote without breaking the shell. |
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DAMNIT! this remote kit is currently no good for making a wireless iRiver remote setup
It works fine, but instead of the relays output going on and staying on while you press the remote button down, they act as on/off toggle switches; press the remote button and it turns the relay off, press it again and it turns it on, press it again and it turns it off etc. etc. The larger 12-button kit has jumper-configurable outputs so the relays act as toggle outputs or press on output, I'd assume they use the same basic chips as these 4 button ones so it might be possible to configure this 4-button kit. Will have to see what I can come up with. |
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I discovered what the 5 extra solder points meant for a socket were for, if you wire 4 push buttons up to them you can control the relay toggling direct without having to use the remote.
Couldn't find any lines/solder points that would facilitate jumpers to select button=toggle or button=on outputs though |
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I've discovered there's a 4-button RF version that doesn't have latching so I'm going to bug the seller and see if I can get one off them, then I'll be able to wire it into the non-LCD iRiver remote.
Don't particularly want to spend the extra money on the 12-button RF one for connecting to the non-LCD iRiver remote, I want to make sure this 4-button setup works before I start thinking about spending quite a bit of money on an extra LCD remote and 12 button RF remote kit. |
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And here's astec looking for support to get a remote for the PMP users when H series owners get all this. Hmmm off to the workshop again. Still looking for a H series remote to get it working on the PMP.
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OFF TOPIC
Hi Haku. Sorry for posting this here, but your PM inbox is full & won't accept any more. I need a new joystick for mine coz it wore out (see H140 Joystick Worn-out!!!!). Somebody suggested I ask you, as the resident electronics guru & iriver modder. Do you have spare parts for a H140? Would u be willing to sell [ or donate -eogmp3 APOLOGIES FOR OFF TOPICNESS |
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Hi, does anybody know how the " hold signal" works? I found out that the main station measure resistance betwen HOLD and GND, when remote is pluged. Then decide if the HOLD button is active. When he measure big resistance, H302 goes mad. And sometimes resistance are mishmasched.
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