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I have an X5 60GB which is physically the same size as the 30GB X5L and it's not really all that big. It is several mm thicker at the top than at the bottom. Mine has never really seemed hot from transferring, so there aren't really any thermal issues I can think of. The subpack is kinda a pain, but I just leave mine in the bottom of the player a lot since I use the line-out in my car.
Once you finally get the zCover I think you'll like it; I'm quite fond of mine. I didn't get mine for like a week after getting the X5 so I was pretty paranoid as well. It is a pretty durable little machine though.
I can't really comment on the Cowon firmware as I never used it. I put on Rockbox right away but to each his own. Once you do install Rockbox it'll be almost the exact same as using it on your H320 was.
If you use IEMs I think you'll notice less hiss than you did with your H320. I have considerably less on my X5 than my H160.
Well, congratulations on getting the X5L and I hope you like it a lot as you use it more.
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